Craggy Island: The climbing gym that hates boulderers? | September 25, 2014

Over that last year I’ve got really into bouldering. I’m not especially good, but I enjoy the mental and physical challenge of solving bouldering problems over the tedium of a regular gym. I tried rope climbing once, but wasn’t keen on all the equipment or the need to climb in pairs. So I much prefer the freedom and flexibility that comes with bouldering.

When a work trip took me to Guildford, I decided to head down the evening before and check out Craggy Island. I’ve met a few people who climb there and highly recommend it, so I was looking forward to my bouldering session the whole drive up.

I’ve been to mixed climbing and bouldering places before, and have never had a problem. However when I arrived at Craggy Island I was turned away at the door. You see, despite only wanting to go Bouldering, the folks at Craggy Island won’t let boulderers into their gym unless they also know how to rope climb. I tried to explain that I only wanted to use the bouldering wall, but it fell on deaf ears.

Having been rope climbing once before, I decided to try my luck and give it a go. However without the necessary muscle memory I hit a mental block and couldn’t remember how to tie a belay knot. As each successive person passed by on their way into the gym, I began to feel more and more humiliated.

I tried to reason with the guy on the front desk. After all they were asking me to prove I could do something I had no intention of doing, just to get in. A little like asking for proof you can high-dive, when all you wanted to do is a couple of laps of the pool.

I asked if he could jog my memory as I was almost there, but he wasn’t willing to help. Instead he suggested I came back another time to do a refresher course - something I obviously couldn’t do because I was only there for a day, and didn’t want to do because I was only interested in bouldering.

Rather than trying to help, or give me the benefit of doubt, there was a real “jobsworth” mentality at play here. What if they let me in because I said I was going bouldering, but I lied and actually tried to scale the climbing wall not correctly tied in? This would make sense had I not been to mixed bouldering and climbing gyms in more litigious countries like the US and faced no such problem. Instead you just sign a waiver, hand over your money and are trusted to do the right thing.

Walking out of the gym I felt angry, humiliated and dejected. What should have been the highlight of my trip turned out to be the low point, and put me in a bad mood for the rest of the day. Instead of a great climb I left with the feeling that boulderers aren’t welcome at Craggy Island, and I most defitly won’t be going back.

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